Variations on Filipino Adobo: Thyme and Grapes

The classic adobo is perfect in its simplicity. It gets its depth of flavor from braising bone-in chicken thighs and legs, highlighted by the savory aromas of bay leaves and black peppercorns. The sauce is perfectly loose, designed to be soaked up by jasmine rice. It is sour-forward with the saltiness of soy sauce coming in close second.

I don't like the idea that the variations of this dish are improvements. I don't think this dish needs to be elevated, although some may think of it as such. In this variation I was thinking about sweetness, aroma, and body. Some adobo recipes call for sugar to blunt the sharpness of vinegar. But I like the idea of fruit as a sweetener. In a previous post, I made an adobo with eggplant sweetened by an Asian pear, inspired by Korean cuisine. Since it's in season, I decided to use grapes and grape jelly. And keeping in line with fruitiness, I used apple cider vinegar instead of cane vinegar. The jelly gives body to the sauce while the fruit provides freshness to an otherwise heavy sauce. The butter lightens the sauce but it also softens the vinegar. I also thought that thyme is the perfect herb to compliment the savory soy sauce. The shallots are milder in flavor but it has a sweeter onion smell. The result is a type of adobo that can go well with buttered egg noodles or pasta, or even with a baguette.

Anyway, here's how to fuck it up:

• chicken legs, thighs or both, bone-in, skin on 4-6 pieces depending on size
• soy sauce, 1/2 cup
• apple cider vinegar, 3/4 cup
• water, 1/2 cup
• garlic cloves, crushed, 6 each
• shallots, slices, 4 large
• thyme, 1 sprig
• grapes, halved, 10-15 each
• black peppercorn, 2 tablespoons
• bay leaves, 5 pieces
• grape jelly, 2 tablespoons
• unsalted butter, 1 tablespoon
• olive oil, 1 tablespoon
• sea salt, to taste

In a bowl, combine chicken, soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic. Marinate for 30 minutes.

Once chicken is done marinating, take the chicken out of the liquid and pat dry. Reserve marinating liquid.

Heat oil in sautoir over high heat. Sear chicken skin side down. Remove from pan once browned.

Drain some fat from the pan, leaving about a tablespoon. Turn heat down to medium and add shallots. Saute shallots until translucent.

Add chicken back in the pan and pour in the marinating liquid and water. Make sure to scrape the bottom of the pan. Add thyme, black peppercorn, and bay leaves and bring to a boil.

Turn heat down to medium low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

Uncover and reduce liquid by half. Turn heat to low and melt grape jelly into the sauce, Season with sea salt to taste (it might not need it). Turn off heat and swirl in butter.

On a separate saute pan, fry grapes in olive oil until heated through. Garnish on top of the dish.